by
Matt Bird
"When is a restaurant, not a restaurant? This is not the beginning of a bad joke but a conversation about the different types of eateries you can enjoy eating out in Noto and across Sicily.
A restaurant could be ristorante, trattoria, osteria, taverna, enoteca, putia or a tavolo calda! Confused? Well, add to that that the differences between the different names don't always mean as much as they once did, and they can be used interchangeably. I find it fascinating to understand the history and culture behind them. So here is my whistle-stop tour of eateries ranging from the most formal to informal...
A ristorante is a full-service restaurant. You should expect to be seated by a host or hostess and receive a traditional waiter service with a full a la carte menu and probably a sommelier. The name ristorante derives from the French homonym restaurant, the Latin of 'to refresh'. At the end of the 18th century, the first restaurant that bore this name was born in Paris and served 'the food that refreshes', i.e. soup. Due to its proximity to France, Piedmont was the first Italian region with a proper 'ristorante', claiming the first in 1765.
One of my favourite ristorante is Singola in Modica - a vegetarian eatery serving only organic food prepared by the incredible Chef Pasquale Passannante.
Instagram: Singola
A trattoria is a traditionally family-owned, casual neighbourhood restaurant serving simple, seasonal and rustic local food. The name trattoria comes from the French word ‘traiteur’ which derives from 'traiter' which means 'host/caterer' and 'to treat'.
One of my favourite trattoria is Trattoria del Gallo in Palazzolo Acreide - a totally unpretentious eatery with no written menu and super rustic food - it's amazing!
Instagram: Trattoria del Gallo
An osteria is historically a no-frills place where tradesmen and locals would bring their own food and sit at communal tables. Nowadays, osteria typically have no menu or a menu on a board, with the offering changing daily depending on what is available at the market. The name osteria derives from the old French word 'oste' for innkeeper and Latin 'hospes' or host.
One of my favourite osteria is Kuchinir Domowa, meaning home kitchen in Polish, on the road to Cava Grande - an eatery attached to the home of Zio and Eva serving only food sourced from their holmstead.
Instagram: NA
An enoteca is traditionally a place where Italians go to drink wine, essentially a wine bar (that serves no food). Now most enoteca also serve simple plates of food and others have evolved into full-service restaurants but continue to call themselves enoteca to highlight their emphasis on wine. The name enoteca derives from from the Greek word Οινοθήκη, which literally means 'wine repository' or 'wine library'.
One of my favourite enoteca is Strada Del Vino, meaning street of wine in Italian - a beautiful courtyard exclusively serving wines from the Val di Noto and managed by the brilliant Peppe!
Instagram: Strada del Vino
A putia is a small shop selling food and wine where people go to pass the time of day. The name putia derives from the the Sicilian dialect meaning 'the shop'.
A Putia isn't a putia in the traditional sense of the word but the name has been adopted for this eatery on Ortigia Island.
Instagram: A Putia
A tavola calda is Italy's answer to fast food serving ready-to-eat dishes such as arancini and pizza slices. The name tavolo calda literally translates 'hot table'.