Your Visit to Modica - the chocolate capital of Sicily
by
Matt Bird
Modica is one of the eight beautiful cities of the Val di Noto. Destroyed by the earthquake of 1693 and rebuilt in the years that followed in the archectural style of the day - late barque. Modica is infamous for its rather unique chocolate.
When driving to Modica, I recommend putting ‘Corso Umberto I’ into your GPS. This will take you to a street where I often find street parking, if not here then on one of the nearby streets. Parking can easily be paid for using the Easypark App.
Once you are parked begin to walk north. The road will fork. Take the left turning, which is the continuation of Corso Umberto I. As you stroll up the street, you will see a pavement sign for Bonajuta. This is the first of two recommended Modica chocolate stops.
Modica Chocolate
Sicily was occupied for 500 years by the Spanish and they introduced this cold processing method. This cold processing was the standard chocolate making process in Europe up unitl the Industrial Revolution in the 19th century. There began a slow change to producing chocolate using with added sugar and temperature, known as tempering. The taste of chocolate changed; it became sweeter and smoother.
Modica continuea to this day to make chocolate using the cold processed method producing a chocolate with a more distinct taste of cocoa and a slightly rough and grainy consistency from the unmelted sugar.
Bonajuta Chocolate
Antica Dolceria Bonajuta has been producing chocolate since 1880 for six generations, over 150 years. At the Bonajuta counter, you can sample any of their extensive range of chocolates and purchase your favourites to take home with you. My favourite chocolate treat is their liquid chocolate. It is nothing like a hot chocolate as it is full of cocoa and it is served at a cool temperature which is so refreshing on a hot day.
Cathedral of Saint Peter the Apostle
As you return to the main street, Corso Umberto I, you cannot miss Duomo di San Pietro Apostolo or the Cathedral of Saint Peter the Apostle on the opposite side of the street. A church on this site was documented in 1308, and tradition has it that it was founded by San Marziano, a disciple of Saint Peter, who was the first Bishop of Syracusa. The church was mostly destroyed by the 1693 earthquake and then rebuilt in the Baroque style.
Continue walking up the high street, go past the street Corso Giuseppe Garibaldi, and take the next turn on the right, which is pedestrian only. This leads to a flight of steps, at the top of which turn left. From here, I love to turn right, turn left, turn right, turn left and discover all the small lanes leading to the Duomo or Cathedral.
Cathedral of Saint George
Duomo di San Giorgio or the Cathedral of Saint George has a grand facade and an imposing flight of stairs leading up to the main entrance. It is so special that it is included in the World Heritage List by UNESCO.
One of my favourite things to do at Saint George’s is to climb the spiral staircase to the bell tower. From there, you can enjoy spectacular views over Modica and the hills surrounding it. It costs a few euros, but it is totally worth it.
Sabadi Chocolate
Exiting the Cathedral to the right is the second chocolate stop—Sabadi. Sabadi is a modern chocolatier using the historic cool-processing method, of course.
Simone Sabadi’s most recent visionary innovation is chocolate ageing! Thanks to cocoa’s fat component, which absorbs the scents around it and maintains them over time, Sabadi now has the first chocolate ageing cellar in the world! The finished product, known as Gli Affinati or The Refined, is wrapped in individual pieces and sold in tins (the sort that loose tobacco was once served in).
It is time to walk down the steps opposite the Cathedral of Saint George. As you do so, enjoy the panorama in front of you. It’s also a great photo spot to stand by the lamppost with the city’s panorama behind you!
Modica Restaurants
Modica has many wonderful places to eat and drink, and a blog on that subject will undoubtedly follow.
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