by
Matt Bird
Modica is the chocolate capital of Sicily. It uses a unique cold processing method, producing a chocolate with a more distinct taste of cocoa and a slightly rough and grainy consistency from the unmelted sugar.
Modica is one of the eight towns of the Val di Noto recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. They were destroyed by an earthquake in 1693 and rebuilt during the period of late baroque architecture.
Modica is a 40-minute drive from Noto. I recommend entering ‘Corso Umberto I’ into your navigation and on arrival parking there or in a nearby street.
Begin your exploration of Modica by walking north and when you reach a fork in the road turn left continuing along Corso Umberto I. As you stroll up the street, you will see a pavement sign for Bonajuta. This is the first of two recommended Modica chocolate stops.
Antica Dolceria Bonajuta has been producing chocolate since 1880 for six generations, over 150 years. At the Bonajuta counter, you can sample any of their extensive range of chocolates and purchase your favourites to take home with you. My favourite chocolate treat is their liquid chocolate. It is nothing like a hot chocolate as it is full of cocoa and it is served at a cool temperature which is so refreshing on a hot day.
Sicily was occupied for 500 years by the Spanish and they introduced a cold chocolate processing method. This cold processing was the standard chocolate making process in Europe up until the Industrial Revolution in the 19th century. There began a slow change to producing chocolate using with added sugar and temperature, known as tempering. The taste of chocolate changed; it became sweeter and smoother.
As you return to the main street, Corso Umberto I, you cannot miss the Cathedral of Saint Peter the Apostle (Duomo di San Pietro Apostolo), on the opposite side of the street. A church on this site was documented in 1308, and tradition has it that it was founded by San Marziano, a disciple of Saint Peter, who was the first Bishop of Syracusa. The church was mostly destroyed by the 1693 earthquake and then rebuilt in the Baroque style.
Continue walking up the high street, go past the street Corso Giuseppe Garibaldi, and take the next turn on the right, which is pedestrian only. This leads to a flight of steps, at the top of which turn left. From here, I love to turn right, turn left, turn right, turn left and discover all the small lanes leading to the Duomo or Cathedral.
The Cathedral of Saint George (Duomo di San Giorgio) has a grand facade and an imposing flight of stairs leading up to the main entrance. It is so special that it is included in the World Heritage List by UNESCO.
One of my favourite things to do at Saint George’s is to climb the spiral staircase to the bell tower. From there, you can enjoy spectacular views over Modica and the hills surrounding it. It costs a few euros, but it is totally worth it.
Exiting the Cathedral to the right is the second chocolate stop - Sabadi, a modern chocolatier using the historic cool-processing method, of course.
Simone Sabadi’s most recent visionary innovation is chocolate ageing! Thanks to cocoa’s fat component, which absorbs the scents around it and maintains them over time, Sabadi now has the first chocolate ageing cellar in the world! The finished product, known as Gli Affinati or The Refined, is wrapped in individual pieces and sold in tins (the sort that loose tobacco was once served in).
It is time to walk down the steps opposite the Cathedral of Saint George. As you do so, enjoy the panorama in front of you. It’s also a great photo spot to stand by the lamppost with the city’s panorama behind you!
When you have finished exploring and ready to return to your car take the steps back to the main corso.
Enjoy your visit to Modica, the chocolate capital of Sicily!