by
Matt Bird
If you're in Noto and feeling the heat, why not cool off with a dip in a fresh water pool? Just a short drive and walk away, you'll discover a serene spot perfect for a refreshing swim.
To find this hidden gem, simply enter "Noto Antica" into your smartphone's maps. You'll find two routes, but I recommend taking the main road to Palazzolo Acreidea (SS287). The other option, via the road to Testa dell’Acqua (SP24), is a bit more challenging, with steep and rough patches. If you're up for an adventure, it's a fun drive, but you need to be confident behind the wheel.
I recommend that you park just outside the old city gate. Some visitors park inside the site to save themselves a short walk; however, I personally feel that it is disrespectful of the site, and I am not convinced that you wouldn't get a parking ticket. Begin your walk by entering through the citygate and walking along the main track.
My favourite ruin at Noto Antica is the remains of a grand home. A few minutes from the city gate, the path turns, and on the right, you'll notice the remains of a tower. If you approach the tower and follow the second narrow path to the right, you'll discover the remains of this grand home. You can still see the bases of columns that once supported the roof and pieces of the column scattered on the ground. The outer wall of the home and one of the fireplaces are also still visible. It's a fascinating glimpse into the past!
When you have finished exploring the grand home return to the main track. In around 10 minutes you will come across a religious stone monument and a wooden sign marked ‘Concerie’ pointing right. From here, a small path leads you to a fence within three minutes, where you'll spot a gate and a sign reading ‘Cava Carosello Concerie.’
Take this path down into the canyon. At a leisurely pace, you'll reach the canyon floor in about 15 minutes. The trail is well-defined and rich with history, and I often wonder about the countless stories it holds.
Once you reach the bottom, you can turn right to explore the ancient Concerie (tanneries) or continue straight ahead to find the freshwater pool and waterfall.
The abundance of water at the bottom of the canyon and its secluded location made it ideal for tanneries. Here, animal hides were transformed into leather for shoes, clothing, and other products by soaking them in water and chemicals, drying them, and then treating them with oils and dyes.
However, by the mid-20th century, the tanning industry in Noto and across Europe declined due to new industrial practices, the rise of synthetic materials, and increased competition from other regions. This led to the abandonment of the Cava Carosello Concerie, leaving behind a historical site that you can explore today.
The fresh water pool is wonderfully cool, a perfect contrast to the intense heat of Noto and its warm seas.
Some of my favourite activities include sitting by the pool with my feet in the water, wading out to waist height, standing on the large rock in the middle, treading water beyond the rock, getting right under the waterfall, or even jumping from the waterfall into the deep pool below.
It's a delightful spot to relax for an hour or two, perhaps with a picnic or so refreshments.
On January 11, 1693, Sicily experienced one of the most devastating earthquakes in European history, with a magnitude of 7.4-7.6. The disaster claimed an estimated 60,000 lives and destroyed numerous communities and cities in southeastern Sicily.
Noto was one of those cities. In the years following the earthquake, the city was rebuilt in a new location. The move was necessary due to the extent of the destruction. Also, it provided an opportunity for improved urban planning, a more stable location, and to reflect the Baroque cultural renaissance of the time.
In 2002, the cities of the Val di Noto—including Noto, Caltagirone, Catania, Militello Val di Catania, Modica, Palazzolo Acreide, Ragusa, and Scicli—were awarded UNESCO World Heritage Status. They represent ‘the culmination and final flowering of Baroque art in Europe.’
If you prefer seawater swimming, do check out one of a myriad of local beaches within easy reach of Noto